Water softener loop: what it is and how to check your Phoenix home

A loop is the plumbing that lets a softener connect to your main line without cutting pipe. Here's how to spot one, what goes on it, and what to ask if your home doesn't have one.

What is a water softener loop in a Phoenix home?

A water softener loop is a short detour in your main water line. The pipe that brings water from the meter comes out of the wall, and a second pipe goes back in. A softener connects between the two, so every drop heading to your taps passes through it first. Until a softener is fitted, the two stubs are either capped or joined by a short U-shaped piece of pipe so water can flow through the house as normal.

The point of a loop is placement. Softener makers ask for the same layout: Morton, GE and Pentair manuals all say to put the softener close to where water enters the home, ahead of the water heater and other plumbing, and to keep outside faucets on hard water so you don’t spend salt on the lawn. A loop built for a softener does exactly that.

A water softener loop diagram

Water softener loop diagram Simplified diagram, not to scale. The main line comes in from the meter. A branch to the outdoor hose bibs tees off before the loop, so it stays hard. The main line then reaches the softener loop, where a bypass valve sends water down to the softener and back. The softener connects to a brine (salt) tank and sends rinse water down a drain line that ends above the drain with an air gap. Soft water leaves the bypass valve for the water heater and the house. Main line in (from the meter) Outdoor hose bibs (branch stays hard) Softener loop Bypass valve in out Softener resin tank and control valve Brine (salt) tank drain line air gap Drain (floor drain or standpipe) To water heater and house (soft) Simplified diagram, not to scale

The diagram shows the parts in the order water meets them. The hose-bib branch splits off before the loop, the bypass valve sits where the softener meets the loop, and the softener’s drain line ends a little above the drain rather than inside it. That gap stops dirty drain water from being pulled back into your supply; our guide to the water softener drain line covers the sizes and gap distances manufacturers ask for.

Do I have a loop? How to check your own house

You don’t need a plumber to look. Take a flashlight and work through these in order:

  1. Find the main line. Start at the main shut-off. It is often in the garage or on an outside wall close to it.
  2. Look for two pipes side by side. A loop is two stubs a few inches apart coming out of the wall or up from the slab, often with caps or a U-bend joining them. Some builders label them “softener” or “soft water loop”.
  3. Check for a drain and an outlet. A loop is far more useful with a drain and a power socket nearby, because the softener needs both.
  4. Trace the hose-bib pipe. Where you can see it, follow the pipe that feeds your outside taps. If it leaves the main line before the loop, that branch will stay hard, as manufacturers recommend.
  5. Ask. Your builder, the home’s original plans, or the seller’s disclosure may say whether a pre-plumbed loop was included.

If you find a loop, you have a pre-plumbed house and installing a softener is a much smaller job. See our guide to water softener installation in Phoenix for what the installer needs on site.

Size a softener for your home

2. How many people live in your home?

the number your kit shows, in grains per gallon
Your water is
Very hardAbout 160 lb of minerals flow into your home each year
Softener size to buy
24,000-grain
the size number on the box
Salt it will use
About 9
40 lb bags a year
Set the hardness dial to
14
recharges about every 7 days

What the dial setting means

Every softener has a control valve on top with a setting for your water's hardness, usually labelled "hardness" or "grains". Enter this number there. It tells the softener how hard your water is, so it knows when it is full.

"Recharging" (some manuals say "regenerating") is the softener cleaning itself: it rinses its resin beads with salty water to flush out the minerals they have caught. With this setting it happens on its own, about every 7 days in your home, usually at night.

Set the number too low and hard water slips through before the next recharge. Set it too high and the softener recharges early, wasting salt and water.

A 24,000-grain softener fits a standard loop; ask your installer to set the dial to 14.

Phoenix blends river, canal and well water, so hardness shifts across the city. We use the middle of the range. Source: City of Phoenix Water Services Department, annual water quality report, 2025.

We don't make, sell or install water softeners or filters. Every hardness figure comes from the water utility's own published report, not from us or a seller.

How this figure was measured

Who published it

About the authority
The City of Phoenix department that runs Phoenix's public drinking-water system. This figure is the utility's own. We don't produce or adjust it.
Type of source
Annual water quality report. Every community water system in the U.S. must publish one each year under the federal Safe Drinking Water Act, so it is the utility’s own official record of what is in its water.
Data year
2025
Last checked
15 October 2026, against the original document

What the figure is

What was measured
Total hardness, reported in parts per million and grains per gallon: 10 to 17.6 grains per gallon (171 to 301 mg/L)
Area covered
The whole Phoenix water system
How it was sampled
One range for the whole city water system, as printed in the report.
Where the water comes from
In 2025 about 97 to 99 percent came from surface water: the Salt and Verde rivers (through Salt River Project canals) and the Colorado River (through the Central Arizona Project aqueduct). The rest came from about 20 city groundwater wells.

How we use it

Figure we use
Middle of the published range (13.8 grains per gallon).
Unit conversion
1 grain per gallon = 17.1 milligrams per litre (mg/L), the same as parts per million (ppm)
How we calculate
Daily hardness to remove = people × 75 gallons × grains per gallon. We pick the smallest standard size that lasts about 7 days between recharges, at 3,300 grains removed per pound of salt.
Limits
Hardness varies by street and by season as utilities switch between water sources. A home test result is more exact and overrides this figure.

Water softener loop installation in a Valley home, step by step

On a pre-plumbed loop, fitting a softener follows the same pattern in most manuals:

  • Turn off the water and drain the pipes before cutting or opening anything.
  • Fit the bypass valve to the softener’s control valve, then connect the loop’s inlet stub to the softener’s inlet and the outlet stub to its outlet. Getting them backwards is a common mistake; manuals list “plumbed backward” among the causes of hard water after an install.
  • Run the drain line to a floor drain, laundry standpipe or similar, ending above it with an air gap.
  • Connect the brine tank overflow to its own drain point, separate from the valve’s drain line.
  • Restore water slowly, check every joint for leaks, add salt, plug in the control valve and program the hardness. The City of Phoenix’s annual report on its 2025 water quality puts the city’s hardness at 10 to 17.6 grains per gallon, so use the figure for your area; our hardness setting by city lists it.

Pentair’s manual adds a pressure check: between 20 and 120 psi at the softener, with a regulator if the pressure is higher.

Copper or PEX water softener loop?

Loops are run in copper or in PEX (plastic) tubing. The difference matters for one thing besides the fittings: grounding. Pentair and Morton both warn that on metal plumbing, a plastic bypass valve breaks the pipe’s electrical continuity, and if your home’s electrical system is grounded through the water pipe, it must be restored with a jumper wire or a metal bypass. Ask your installer how they handle this, and check local electrical and plumbing codes.

No loop? Adding one or roughing one in

Without a loop, the main line has to be cut, a new pipe run out to the softener spot and back, and the outdoor branch kept ahead of it. That is usually a licensed plumber’s job. Before you start:

  • Ask your city’s building department whether a permit is needed at your address.
  • If you hire someone for the plumbing, ask for their Arizona Registrar of Contractors license number.
  • Ask for a written quote listing the pipe work, bypass valve, drain line and any electrical work. No official source publishes a price for adding a loop, so we don’t give one. For the softener itself, published estimates run from about $400 to $2,700 (North Dakota State University Extension, 2022), or $500 to $1,500 for the hardware only (Penn State Extension, 2025). Those are estimates, not quotes.

If you’re remodeling or building, ask for a softener rough-in (capped stubs, a drain and an outlet) even if you don’t plan to buy a softener yet. If the space you have is outdoors, read our guide on installing a water softener outside in Arizona first: manufacturers set limits on heat and direct sun.

Water softener bypass loop vs bypass valve

People use “bypass loop” for two different things. The loop is the plumbing in the wall. The bypass valve is the handle or push-button valve that sits between the loop and the softener. Pentair says its bypass valve is there for emergency leaks in the equipment, service calls and outdoor water use; Morton says it lets you turn off water to the softener while keeping water in the house pipes. If a softener ever leaks, the bypass is the first thing to turn; our checklist for a water softener leaking takes it from there, and an older unit may be due for the repair-or-replace decision.

Where these facts come from

  • Morton Water Softeners · installation and operation manual · 2024 · where to place a softener, outdoor faucets on hard water, bypass purpose, grounding on metal pipe.
  • Pentair · whole-house softener installation manual · 2020 · bypass purpose, outside faucets, pressure range, grounding warning.
  • GE Appliances · softener owner’s manual and installation instructions · 2023 · placement ahead of the water heater, drain and power needs.
  • WaterBoss · owner’s manual and installation guide · 2020 · “plumbed backward” as a cause of hard water; separate overflow and drain lines.
  • Whirlpool Water Solutions and EcoWater Systems · manufacturer FAQ pages · undated · average softener lifespan.
  • City of Phoenix Water Services · annual water quality report · 2025 · Phoenix hardness range.
  • North Dakota State University Extension · water softening fact sheet · revised 2022 · published retail price range for home softeners.
  • Penn State Extension · water softening article · updated 2025 · published hardware price range.

Common questions

What happens when you bypass your water softener?
Water flows straight past the softener to the house, so you get hard water at every tap until you switch back. Manufacturers include the bypass so you can keep water on during repairs or leaks, and some suggest using it when watering outside for long periods.
How do I know if my house has a softener loop?
Find where the main line enters the house, usually in the garage. A loop shows up as two pipes coming out of the wall, joined by a short U-shaped pipe or ending in caps, sometimes labeled. If you see only one pipe running straight into the house, there is probably no loop.
Where should a water softener be installed?
Softener makers say: on the main line close to where water enters the home, ahead of the water heater, with outdoor faucets left on hard water. It needs a drain and a power outlet nearby, a level floor, and no freezing or direct sun.
How long does a water softener last?
Whirlpool and EcoWater, both softener makers, put the average at about 10 to 15 years, depending on hardness and upkeep. Whirlpool adds that softeners on low to moderately hard water recharge less often and can last a few years longer.